Finally, a Fashion Week for the People

Copenhagen Fashion Week is so good that it makes its counterparts in Paris and New York look like the TikTok-algorithm driven, tryhard Olympics. Maybe that’s harsh. Of course, coolness exists in these places too — but it doesn’t feel as natural. I remember the first time I set foot in Copenhagen: I was 19 and I didn’t really know my style yet but, after feasting my eyes on Danish sidewalks full of fashionable men and women as stylish as any runway models — I knew mine dulled in comparison. 

Scandi sartorial codes are distinctly intuitive and no-fuss, so it feels fitting that there’s a well-oiled machine powering CPHFW behind the scenes. But it’s still surprising that the week’s inner workings are this tightly-wound. Unlike those at other fashion weeks, the schedule is always prompt. At my first go-around a few years ago, I was baffled to learn that a show starting a quarter-past its scheduled time was considered late. Truly, this thing is run with military precision. And it pays off. Because in order to be fun, there must first be proper function. This delicate balance between a good time and, well, being on time fuels CPHFW, making it unlike any other fashion week across the globe. 

I landed in the city early last Monday and hit the ground running. The week opened with regular opener, OperaSport, a whimsical Denmark-based label for Scandinavian it-girls. Nicklas Skovgaard’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection was next, and this was one of the collections that replayed in my mind like a good earworm. Not only was each ‘60s-inspired ensemble ingrained into my brain, but the showcase was an exemplary display of the invigorating personality that defines Copenhagen’s finest brands. As girl group True Blue mounted a stage poised at the end of the runway, perfectly primmed heads craned to the right as the first models made their grand entrance, chauffeured in a classic car. Introducing: the Skovgaardettes. 

Marimekko left its mark as well — and after a few looks cascaded down the runway, it became apparent the Finnish brand was flirting with us. The label’s philosophy is simple: joy is abundant, and clothing should reflect that. Street-style photos at Marimekko shows catch even the most stoic moggers flashing blinding smiles, and the front row always looks like a rainbow that extends for miles. I caught up with Creative Director Rebekka Bay backstage to discuss some of these novel elements of her surprisingly seductive new collection. “We really wanted to create a new silhouette, something a bit youthful and cute. But alongside cute, we’re still channeling that feisty woman,” she continued, “The intent was to create that stark contradiction. And, of course, we’re a womenswear brand — but especially today, there are no rules about men wearing women’s clothes!”

Duality was on full display at Herskind as well, as designer Birgette Herskind’s SS27 collection conflated softness with structure. Fine-tuned forms initially whispered onto the runway, but as the show continued, that whisper escalated into a confident roar.“We wanted to spotlight tailoring, as it's the foundation of the brand,” Herskind explained backstage, “but then we wanted to show how you can style our classic pieces in new ways.” 

My other favorites included Collina Strada’s entirely upcycled collection, Baum und Pferdgarten’s King’s Garden takeover, By Malene’s Birger’s show presented upon the backdrop of a scrolling estate outside of the city, a surprising adidas x O.Files collab, and Caro Editions’ reworked Levi’s jackets made from deadstock couture trims.

I even had a fabulous time at Copenhagen International Fashion Fair. I didn’t really know much about trade shows before visiting CIFF, but what I did know was that most seem sterile — giant, lifeless warehouses full of inventory and people trying to push said inventory to buyers. But imagine Coachella combined with a fashion fair — sans scantily-clad influencers. That’s CIFF, and it’s anything but lackluster. 

It’s the largest trade show in Europe, but though there’s much business afoot, CIFF doesn’t take itself too seriously. Last season, I signed up to get an on-site tattoo from an artist permanently inking visitors throughout the duration of the fair. This season, after meetings, I stumbled upon a champagne happy hour in between mazes of clothing racks — the embodiment of “business in the front, party in the back.” CIFF is so much defined by this notion that it’s since expanded to both Paris and Milan — proving its ability to make trade shows digestible and downright enjoyable. 

Good things are acceptable in moderation, but that only matters if you can enjoy those good things at all. And at Copenhagen Fashion Week, everyone is enjoying all of the good things. That’s what makes it so pleasant — just like every fashion week, there’s grunge and glam, amusement and exertion, clout and trends. The difference is that all of it arrives on time, and with the stress of scheduling gone, CPHFW allows guests the freedom to have fun — because clothing is supposed to be fun after all, right?