18 Actually Great Moments From Paris Men’s Fashion Week
Hitting highs around 110°F, this year’s Paris Men’s Fashion Week may have felt like a desert, but it was hardly dry. There was so much going on that it was, as usual, almost too much to take in. I didn’t make it to every show, showroom, party, activation, or dinner, but I did my best. And here’s the best stuff I saw.
Celine’s Asymmetric Sock Tuck
Everything about this Michael Rider collection, Celine’s long-awaited return to the runway, was an A-plus stellar home-run slam dunk, and every time one of these looks, with one pant leg casually tucked into the sock, came down the runway, I did an audible and comically large chef’s kiss. I loved it.
Salon C. Lundman’s Schnapps Bar
You can learn a lot about a designer by looking at what they have on their showroom desk. Lundman always has a beautiful assortment of rare liquor and delicious snacks.
It’s crazy how many shoes I looked at this week and even crazier how good these delightfully soft derbies are.
Milan’s Bar Paradiso Brings the Mortadella to the Marais
Look at this heaping plate of meat: just one of the Italian delicacies found at the Milanese hot spot’s one-day-only pop-up. I did not eat it all myself.
The Shirt of the Week
Kiko Kostadinov is one of very few designers who leaves their references totally unidentifiable. This beautifully flowy shirt is as original as everything he does, yet it feels like something that should already have been around for decades.
An Ecstatic COMME des GARÇONS Finale
Totally incomprehensible, irresistibly joyous. CdG really takes you on a ride, and this season the ride ended with a chaotic and colorful swarm.
Gabriela Coll’s Stone Jacket
The color of this garment-dyed jacket really did look like it was naturally formed by eons of geological pressure, but this gloriously light piece was all Coll’s genius mind and light touch.
Something New From Evan Kinori
The men’s brand that’s actually a unisex brand is now a unisex brand that also makes clothing for women. Kinori quietly introduced a few new styles this season, including this re-proportioned shirt and jacket, and a skirt. I’d wear it.
A Dinner Party with Downtowners
New York’s Thistles — the eyewear brand from Callan Malone and Thistle Brown — bought out a chic Japanese restaurant and got all the coolest kids in Paris in for sushi and champagne. No wonder everyone is wearing Thistles right now.
This horsehide jacket was washed and tumbled into a beautifully marbled blue that reminded me of a bowling ball — and is just about as heavy.
Graphpaper’s Ceramics Collection
Graphpaper creative director Takayuki Minami brought an impressive collection of white ceramics from Tokyo to his Paris showroom. Gotta love the specificity.
Lemaire Counter-programmed the Weather
While it was diabolically hot and aggressively sunny outside, the skies inside the Lemaire show darkened, and a heavy downpour drenched us all. Refreshing — if only it was real. It certainly sounded as though it was.
Delicious Dior Berries
For Dior’s morning show, guests received the ripest strawbs, individually wrapped and boxed like a fresh pair of Roadie sneakers from the Avenue Montaigne boutique.
Benji B Helped Highsnob Break in the New Bus Palladium
We kicked off the week with a party at the iconic nightclub, which reopened just a couple of months ago. Best DJ set of the week.
Pharrell Caught a Big Wave
Yes, the wave was as sick in person as it looked on your phone, and yes, this season’s simplified, approachable take on LV is P’s best yet. You can tell by what he’s wearing.
The AURALEE Beaded Necklace/Belt
There was a lot of ’90s nostalgia in this AURALEE collection. This look combined a trio of undeniable gen-X-era gems: sheer baseball tee, washed-out cords, and a beaded necklace. A very long one worn as a belt.
Saint Laurent Smoked Out the Bourse de Commerce
Walking through fog like this always feels cool. It was a great way to make a dramatic collection feel even more so.
The Highsnobiety Invitational Tennis Tournament
Everyone talks about tennis, but we’re actually playing. Now’s the time to start training for next year.